Monday, August 14, 2017

Think Pink

I was never a "pink" girl, which sounds stupid, because obviously someone decided pink was for girls a while back, which I think lead to me sort of rebelling against pink as a concept for a long time. This is pretty deep, but in western culture often feminine things are made fun of or put down, including the color pink, which is real stupid, but is also something I internalized. It's similar to the "I'm not like other girls", as if being less feminine is somehow superior, yikes! What an awful thing to be internalizing right? Which is one of many reasons why girls should be allowed to play with toy tools and boys need to be allowed to have dolls and pink, but I digress...

Which is all to say, I like pink now. Have you all heard about millennial pink? The color (well, small range of colors) has been very popular for a few years now, and you may have noticed rose gold, pink hair, and pink everything is having a sort of renaissance. And you know what, I'm a millennial and I like this stupid color, so I guess the marketing kool-aid is working on me. I do sort of wonder if it is related to my first point though, if perhaps we have reached a point in the current feminist cultural dialogue where women are taking back pink and daring the world to say they are less than because they are outwardly feminine. I dunno, am I being to meta today? I made a huge pink skirt and I wore it with a fluffy petticoat, I am not ashamed.

The color of this fabric did look a bit more subdued online (it's from Mood) and I was surprised at just how vibrant it was when it arrived. They called the color "shell pink" but to me it is more of a bright salmon. I still want to find a more muted grey/pink color fabric to make the skirt I had in my mind originally, but this one will be a bright addition to my closet in the meantime. For it's first outing I paired it with the classic black and white striped top, this is perhaps the most typical fashion blogger outfit I have ever worn here on the blog! But when something works, it works right? Luckily this shade of pink does match this great vintage brooch and earrings set that I have had for a few years now and I was happy to wear it again. I sort of want a pink petticoat now too...but I can't go down the rabbit hole of buying colorful petticoats just jet, I can neither afford to or have space for them all!

I hope you all had a magnificent weekend, I got some sewing done so I'm pleased about that! In fact I have to go hem the dress I made now so that I can call it truly finished. I hope you have a survivable Monday and a nice week ahead.

PS: Nazis are fucking stupid, and the US is crazy right now (and also always?). I wear a lot of WWII fashions, and I hold a lot of "modern ideas". They had a lot of stuff wrong in the 1940s, but they knew nazis were full of shit, and so do we. Stand up to this evil, help where you can.

Top: Vivien of Holloway
Skirt: Made by me
Shoes: Bait Footwear (Modcloth)
Handbag, Hat, Belt, Brooch & Earrings: Vintage
Petticoat: Malco Modes

Friday, August 11, 2017

Cataloging Catalogs: Montgomery Ward Spring Summer 1943 (Blouses, Skirts, Suits!)

So...I may have bought another Montgomery Ward catalog, which brings my total up to 4 now! Oops! They are just amazing resources!! I wish I could buy each and every one and digitize them all for us vintage inclined modern folks to browse, but so far I have only managed to scan in most of my Spring Summer 1943 catalog. The "new" one I picked up last week is the Spring Summer 1958 catalog, and it is fun flipping though to see how the fashions have changed from my 1940's catalogs.

Today I have more pages from the 1943 catalog for you all, covering some blouses, sweaters, skirts, and suits, with a few coats too! The pages that I have to scan next after there are mostly coats, but after that are shoes and hats so that will be extra fun. As usual these are quite large images, so click on them to see more detail. Feel free to save, pin, and share these as you please!

Thursday, August 10, 2017

Return of the Well Traveled Blouse

The first time I wore this lovely Heyday Vintage blouse here on the blog I went into detail about the crazy journey back and forth across the Atlantic it had been on before it finally arrived. The United States Postal Service cannot exactly be relied upon for efficiency, but at least I got the blouse in the end, as it is truly gorgeous!

This time I rolled up the full length sleeves and paired the blouse with a sturdy twill skirt for a more wartime sort of on duty look. This pairing makes me think of Peggy Carter, and as Peggy is both stylish and practical I feel like that is no bad thing. Of course this style of gorgeous two toned shoe from Royal Vintage shoes are also named the Peggy, so that fits ;) These shoes are so great, I can only hope they consider making them in more colors in the future. I'd love a pair in dark chocolate brown and warm light cognac leather for example!

We have been having some rather strange weather here for the past week or so, with sunshine disappearing into grey clouds and rain in the afternoons and evening and it is helping me get even more excited for fall! (Not that I'm not already excited for fall, I love fall!) I have already begun to plan my fall sewing projects, and luckily I have some time this next week to get a lot of my last few summer sewing projects finished. I have been procrastinating the more difficult projects on my list for weeks now, because sewing with cotton is just much easier than sewing with slinky rayon, but I have got to get to it or I'll miss the window of summertime entirely!

I hope you have all had a lovely week, and have a fun and relaxing weekend ahead!

Blouse: Heyday Vintage
Skirt: Made by me
Shoes: Royal Vintage Shoes
Clutch & Belt: Vintage

Monday, August 7, 2017

Gingham Country

Two gingham dresses just isn't enough, so I made a third! I had originally planned to make a skirt out of this green and white fabric, but I'm glad I decided to go for a dress in the end. Inspired by some eyelet accented dress styles in one of my old Montgomery Ward catalogs, I decided to use the last scraps of the eyelet from the dress I made in spring for the sleeves of this new gingham dress. I do wish I had made the angle where the eyelet meets the gingham sharper, but such is life!

How crazy light has my hair gotten right? It's a very faded "dark warm brown" but looks very light auburn now. It's about time to dye it a different color, a brighter, fun, and less convenient for vintage-looks-but-too-bad color! I have to finish a very involved video project I have been working on first, as I need to keep a consistent hair color for that, but after that's finished I'm going dark raspberry pink! Could be fun, could be unflattering, only time will tell ;)

I'm afraid I haven't much else to say today, I hope you all had a great weekend!

Dress: Made by me
Shoes: Chelsea Crew
Belt: Target
Handbag & Jewelry: Vintage

Friday, August 4, 2017

How to Draft Neckline and Armscye Facings (Pattern Drafting)

Last time I discussed moving darts around on the bodice and drawing different necklines, so I thought today I should cover how to draft facings to finish necklines and the armscye of sleeveless bodices. Of course you have many options when it comes to finishing the raw edges of necklines and armscyes, like bias binding, bias turned under and used like a facing, bag lining the whole bodice of course encloses the edges, and then facings. Facings are super easy both to draft and to sew! Facings are a great option when you don't need to  (or want to!) add a lining into your project.

To draft some basic facings, you will of course need your bodice front and back pieces.

Start by taking a scrap or length of paper and trace the neckline portion of your bodice pattern onto this new sheet of paper.

Use a ruler to make sure the center front and shoulder lines are traced properly. I usually make my facing pieces 2.5" wide. To do this I use the 2" width of my clear ruler to make marks along the curve  and then add an additional half an inch.

After adding these measured marks, I sketch a curve to mirror the neckline curve along these guide marks. You want the area of the curve where it meets the center front and shoulder to be close to 90 degrees.

Add the relevant details onto the facing pattern, I always mark the center front and the shoulder so I don't get confused later.

Trace the back neckline and make the facing in the same way.

When sewing you will: sew the shoulder seams of the facings (and press them open), finish the outer edge of the facing (serge, binding, zig zag over the edge), then sew the facing onto the neckline with right sides together, clip the curve (if curved or corners) on the seam allowance once sewn, add edge stitching if you are thorough, and press flat. I usually add a few stitches to tack the facing to the shoulder seam as well so it doesn't move around. I'll do a sewing tutorial on how to do all of this soon :)

For sleeveless dresses, you can make armscye facings as well to finish those raw edges. If you will be needing a neckline facing and armscye facings, you can combine them into one piece. Start again by tracing the top half of the bodice pattern and again add the 2.5" curves along the inside.

Simply draw a curve to combine the two facings into one.

Sewing these can be a bit tricky if you haven't done it before, but use this method. 

That's how easy it is to draft basic facings for your bodice patterns! Easy to draft, easy to sew, and they give a nice clean finished look to your projects. The more pattern drafting posts I do, the more I want to do sewing tutorials, so I expect those will be next ;)

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